The city is divided between Old Delhi and New Delhi. New Delhi is where the embassies, the fine houses and the luxury boutiques are located. Pasha gave the driver a route that would take us to the Qutub Minar, an absolute must, he told me. This is a 72-metre-high minaret that is eight centuries old. Despite countless tremors and quakes, the tower continues to commemorate the victory of Muhammad of Ghor over the Hindu sovereign Prithviraj III in 1192.
Later, across the city, he brought me to see the Jama Masjid Great Mosque, situated amidst souks and bazaars where objets d’art are scattered among all sorts of baubles that tourists seem to go for. All around, in the small neighbouring streets near the mosque, itinerant vendors offered dishes of rice and fish or vegetables, washed down with chai. Colourful displays of vegetables and fruits brighten the scenery and add to the street’s gaiety. Both Old Delhi and New Delhi offer plenty of monuments to be seen. Keep in mind, though, that visitors have to pay admission to visit these unique spots.
As the evening wore on, Ashima and Pasha wanted me to delight in a vegetarian meal concocted for me by Ashima and her mother. While we were taking tea, Pasha pictured for me the various means of transport in Delhi, stirring my interest in forms of public transit, especially the metro, which works quite well and can often beat getting around by car.
The vegetables, covered with spices, sesame seed and aromatic herbs, went nicely with basmati rice and the various fish or poultry broths that moistened it. The evening was mild, and Pasha and Ashima’s gardens emitted scents of jasmine and roses in bloom that perfumed the surroundings. My hosts left me for the night, with the next day soon approaching.
The new day was overcast, helping lower the temperature somewhat, from 32 degrees to 28 degrees Celsius. Our day was devoted to visiting a number of temples, after a tour of the Lodi Garden, where I was able to admire the tomb of Sikandar Lodi. Rare plants and palm trees, along with Nile reeds and flowering cactuses, enhanced the greenery of large ferns. This is an environment, in a big city, that allows for instant rest on the stone benches scattered all around. Near the splendid Imperial Hotel (well worth a visit) on Janpath Avenue is found the famous Tibetan market, with products at varied prices that have to be negotiated.
In contrast, the Craft Museum is a state-run shop where prices are not negotiable and where silks, puppets and papier mâché dolls are among the items that can be purchased. The Lotus Temple, the Biria Temple, the Raj Ghat and Tibet House are worth a day’s visit if you wish to understand Indian culture.
Magnificent gold- and silver-threaded saris caught my eye, with a young couple negotiating over them for their marriage. I finally left with cotton and silk cloth that would become precious gifts when I got home.
After a few days spent in the company of my hosts, it was time to leave and think about the next trip. Following far too brief a visit to Delhi, I left with my arms loaded with gifts and souvenirs. The big SWISS bird was awaiting me and, for the next few hours, would enable me to relive a small part of mysterious India. I had discovered the saris of joy!
