From farm to fine dining
"My father is a farmer," says Alessio Ninci, who co-founded Santabarbara Desco & Cucina with Lorenzo Chirimischi. „When he sends us a lamb or a duck, we treat the animal with respect and creativity, making use of every part to create something suprising and delicious.“ It's no surprise that the 20-seat restaurant has become a favorite of Florence's foodie crowd in next to no time. Both owners honed their skills in top-tier restaurants before joining forces to put their talents work in a different way: delivering exceptional quality in a simple, relaxed setting. Guets can choose from four tasting menus of varying lengths, with dishes that change according to the chefs' inspiration. Among the many small plates served at the start of the meal are a delicate onion tarte Tatin and an amberjack tartare. For the main course, diners might be served pan-seared albacore tuna with a sauce made from crushed capers, anchovies, and spring onions. "Most guests are happy to put themselves in our hands," says Lorenzo Chirimischi. "That allows us to offer an innovative, affordable menu that you won't find just anywhere."

The days when Florence meant sitting down to a giant steak in a dimly lit trattoria surrounded by straw-wrapped bottles of Chianti are long gone. A new genaration of restauranteurs is introducing innovative concepts, blending tradition with creative freedom and elevating Tuscany's rustic culinary heritage with fine-dining techniques.

The chef who changed the conversation
Among the pioneers of Florence's gourmet scene is Michelin-starred chef Marco Stabile. For nearly twenty years, he has been creating his own take on Tuscan cuisine in his small, contemporary restaurant where guests can watch him at work through a large glass partition. One day, that might mean beef coated in focaccia crumbs and served with celery root purée; another, black cod atop tiny white Zolfino beans with rosemary and raisins. From time to time, Stabile also revisits signature dishes from the past two decades. One example is "L‘uovo, le uova e la gallina," inspired by his grandmother's Christmas dinner. What was once a hearty stew in her kitchen is presented on the plate as a refined composition: a poached egg, delicately shredded chicken, finely diced soup vegetables, chicken-liver pâté on toasted bread, and an intensely flavorful chicken broth. "It took a long time for my cooking to be accepted," Marco Stabile recalls. "Florentines were not familiar with this style of cuisine, and tourists were looking for the traditional classics they already knew."

Tradition meets contemporary taste
"Florence is a challenging market," says Giulio Picchi. "The temptation to sell unsuspecting visitors just about anything as regional cuisine and make a quick profit it very real." That approach is not an option for the Picchi family, who are something of an institution in Florence. Their flagship restaurant Cibrèo appears in every travel guide, yet it has retained the feel of a discreet local favorite, where celebrities, politicians, and members of Florence's prominent families enjoy superb Tuscan comfort food at white tablecloth tables, far from the spotlight. Next door is the more affordable Trattoria Il Cibreino; across the street sits the charming Cibrèo Café; and a short walk away is the intimate, Asian-inspired Ciblèo. All are located near the Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio, an area that remains largely untouched by mass tourism. Only the newest addition to the group, Cibrèo, is housed in the elegant Hotel Helvetia & Bristol in the city center. Its urban design, featuring coral-red velvet banquettes and oversized wooden chandeliers reminiscent of wagon wheels, provides the backdrop for a cosmopolitan menu: poached egg with caviar over mashed potatoes, spaghetti with white rabbit ragù, or a lavish fish stew meant for two. A reflection of the times? "Yes," says Giulio Picchi, "but above all, it has to taste good."

Local roots, global influences
Luca Armellino, executive chef at Caffè dell’Oro, shares a similar philosophy. “I want to offer food that is good, simple, and natural,” he says. “My time with René Redzepi at Noma in Copenhagen and Norbert Niederkofler at St. Hubertus in South Tyrol reinforced my vision of a sustainable cuisine rooted in local ingredients.” At the same time, Armellino incorporates subtle Far Eastern influences inspired by his years in Japan. Dishes such as crispy calamari tempura with a powder of roasted bell pepper, chives, and crème fraîche, or steamed sea bass with wasabi mayonnaise and nori chips, reflect that experience. Those who prefer to stay closer to home can opt for Sardinian fregola in a saffron sauce with scallop carpaccio and sea asparagus. For dessert, there is a tempting tiramisù made with Biscotti di Prato and Vin Santo, Tuscany’s traditional dessert wine.

Elevating the everyday
Biscotti are also on offer at the trendy ​Il Santo Bevitore, though here the cookies come from the restaurant’s cult-status in-house bakery, Sforno, and are served in the traditional way alongside a glass of Vin Santo for dipping. The rest of the menu likewise focuses on regional classics: refined, modernized, and beautifully presented. Highlights include a silky pappa al pomodoro (Tuscan tomato and bread soup), an airy zucchini flan accompanied by marinated zucchini and zucchini cream, and oven-roasted salt cod served with vegetables, olives, and tomato water. The impressive wine list features virtually every renowned wine from Tuscany, complemented by a thoughtfully curated selection of Champagnes.

A wine lover’s florence
For wine lovers, Florence is a paradise in its own right. "But people come to us for the food as well," says Manuele Gioivanelli, co-owner of ​Enoteca Pitti Cola e Cantina on beautiful Piazza Pitti. In the kitchen is the talented chef Matteo Caironi, preparing dishes such as seared tuna with sesame and homemade ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, served with a truffle-infused Parmesan cream. To accompany the menu, guests can choose from a wine list featuring around 3,000 labels, with a particular focus on Tuscany. Gioivanelli is equally happy to pour a lively Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna or a mineral-driven white wine from an island off the coast of Sicily. “Our regular guests appreciate being introduced to something special,” he says. “And so do visitors from abroad.”