While its name comes from the French word apéritif, the Swiss Apéro is neither the appetite-inducing drink served just before a meal, nor is it a full dining experience like Spanish tapas. It is uniquely Swiss. A moment for community, connection, and celebration. The Swiss find a reason for an Apéro on almost any occasion: the first warm summer evening of the year, the end of a long workday, a birthday, an anniversary – the list goes on. And what must not be missed in any true Swiss Apéro? Swiss cheese, of course.

With our new Apéro service we pay hommage not only to the Swiss tradition, but to a cheese just as rich in history as the Apéro culture itself – perhaps even more so: Sbrinz. Its story begins centuries ago, along historic alpine trade routes, and continues today as one of Switzerland’s most iconic cheeses.

"Lo Sbrinzo" – the cheese from Brienz

The story of Sbrinz dates back to the 16th century – to a time when muleteers loaded the cheese onto their mules, transporting it over the three alpine passes of Brünig, Grimsel, and Gries all the way to Domodossola in northern Italy. Communication with the Italian merchants wasn’t always easy – but one thing was clear to them: the cheese came from Brienz. And so, they simply called it "lo Sbrinzo". From a simple reference to its place of origin, a name was born – one that lives on to this day: Sbrinz.

The historical trade route still exists today as the Via Sbrinz, a multi-day hiking trail leading from central Switzerland over the Alps and into Italy. Each fall, muleteers and their animals take to the path once more, joined by hiking enthusiasts and opened by the traditional «Säumer Festival». Anyone interested can also explore the route independently – as a stage hike or simply as culinary inspiration.

True Tradition in the Heart of Lucerne

In the Lucerne district of St. Karli, right at the River Reuss, lies the Sbrinz cellar – the center of the cheese’s maturation process. Now managed by Emmi, who since acquiring the site in 2005 has made it the exclusive home of Sbrinz, the idea of centralizing cheese storage here first emerged in the early 20th century. In the early days, textile traders would buy cheese directly from the cheese dairies and sell it at high profit – while the milk farmers themselves saw little benefit. The establishment of the maturing cellar in 1926 laid the foundation for fairer distribution and a more sustainable structure. Today, around 60 000 wheels of Sbrinz ripen here – spread across 65 rooms.

The site is run by Robert Emmenegger, who has been part of the Sbrinz world for over 35 years. Together with just six colleagues, he cares for the 42kgs heavy cheeses entirely by hand – without the use of modern machinery. From turning each wheel to testing its sound, texture, and taste: every movement is precise, every decision based on experience. The only mechanical aid in the entire building is the elevator that transports staff and visitors from floor to floor – everything else is tradition, pure and simple.

From the Dairy to the Cellar

But before the cheese reaches the cellar, it begins its journey in the cheese dairy – where milk is transformed into character. Today, only 22 dairies in Switzerland still produce Sbrinz – using raw milk from around 330 regional milk farms. Almost all dairies are still located in the area surrounding Lake Lucerne, with the exception of two locations in the canton of St. Gallen. Each wheel is crafted by hand – the smallest dairies produce one per day, the largest up to 24.

One of these dairies is Käserei Hof in Buochs, which belongs to the Langentannen mountain cheese dairy. There, Peter Barmettler, Armin Rölli and their team produce eleven wheels of Sbrinz each day. The raw, silo-free milk used for the cheese comes directly from nearby milk farms, just a few kilometers from the dairy, and is processed the very same day. Every step of the process adheres to strict AOP regulations – including the use of fresh, regional raw, silo-free milk, traditional copper kettles, aging on untreated fir wood, and many more requirements defined in the official AOP specification handbook.

After about four months of aging in the dairy, the wheels are personally checked, tasted, and selected by Robert Emmenegger. From there, the cheese is transferred to the Sbrinz cellar. Roughly 90% of the wheels go on to earn the Sbrinz AOP label, while the rest are used as hard cheese in other products – because food waste is not an option. In the cellars, the Sbrinz typically matures for an additional two and a half to three years, depending on its final use. And some of those wheels? They continue their journey skyward to SWISS.

An aperitif above the clouds

This is why, since March, you’ll now find Sbrinz not just on your plate at home – but also above the clouds. Because this year, Sbrinz quite literally takes off. In SWISS Economy and SWISS Premium Economy, we now serve our guests a special Apéro featuring the finest Sbrinz chunks: bold, aromatic – and naturally lactose-free. The perfect pairing for a refreshing apple juice or a fine glass of wine – red or white, depending on your taste.