"It always makes me happy when I see SWISS passengers enjoying our food or sharing pictures of it on social media," says Rolf Hiltl. Over a matcha latte at Haus Hiltl, the Zurich restaurateur tells us why flying means freedom to him, which dish catapults him back to the 1970s, and what plans he is pursuing at Zurich Airport.

Rolf, since 2009 your dishes have been part of the SWISS inflight menu. How did this collaboration come about?
It all started with "SWISS Taste of Switzerland," a program where top chefs from different regions of Switzerland bring their menus onboard every three months. We were part of it for one month, and the response was overwhelming. That’s how it became a long-term partnership.

Do you remember the moment when your dishes were served onboard for the very first time?
Yes, very well. At first, I was unsure whether we should even do it. After all, our dishes are only available in Zurich, not in supermarkets or other outlets. But the SWISS brand, the emotions around flying, and the global reach convinced us. Today, it’s a wonderful feeling when I see passengers onboard SWISS enjoying their Hiltl meal, or when photos of it are shared from 33,000 feet up on social media.

What kind of feedback have you received from passengers?
A lot – again and again. For many guests, our dishes have simply become part of the experience. It was especially important to me that they are not only served in First and Business Class, but also in Economy Class. Because mindful eating connects, especially when it is accessible to everyone.

What does flying mean to you?
I remember a striking moment in the remote Kern River Valley in California. There was nothing there, it was incredibly quiet. Suddenly, US Air Force fighter jets thundered over us at breathtaking closeness. When I asked what on earth that was, a local woman simply replied: "This is Freedom." I was shocked, but there is some truth in it: flying is freedom and connects people on this planet. I wish we could once again enjoy flying more consciously and experience it as something special.

You run the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant. What does this responsibility mean to you?
I was born into this tradition – I’m the fourth generation. My great-grandfather would never have dreamed of this! Back then, the restaurant was at the edge of town, and guests were ridiculed as "grass eaters." Today, vegetarian food is a natural part of life. What I especially appreciate is that our cuisine saves the lives of millions of animals. And onboard SWISS, an increasing number of passengers are choosing vegetarian meals as well.

What makes Hiltl so successful in your eyes?
We managed to move away from the image of "picking seeds" without being preachy. Our motto is "healthy indulgence." We simply want to offer good food – for me, that’s the best kind of persuasion. I’m happy when people feel comfortable with us. When children prefer coming to us rather than to McDonald’s, then we’ve done something right. That’s why I love being here in the restaurant – people like this father with his two little sons (as he says this, Rolf Hiltl points to a table at the back of the restaurant) are the best example for me. Moments like these make me proud.

You travel a lot. Which destination has inspired you most, culinarily speaking?
My grandmother already traveled to India in the 1950s, at a time when there were neither Indian food products here nor Indian tourists. The spices and recipes she brought back from that journey still shape our cuisine today. Personally, I love Italian and Mediterranean gastronomy – especially freshly made pasta in all variations. In recent years, however, I’ve also discovered Peruvian cuisine for myself, which is unfortunately still far too underrepresented here.

If you could put together an inflight menu for SWISS that reminds you of your childhood, what would it be?
I really shouldn’t say this. (Laughs.) But when I think of my childhood, one of my mother’s dishes immediately comes to mind: a fried banana, rolled in ham spread with mustard, with a creamy ketchup sauce and instant mashed potatoes. Typical 70s cuisine – quick, simple, and we kids loved it. Apart from that, pasta was always a highlight for me – and it still is my favorite dish today.

Speaking of childhood: what was your first job in the family business?
I already helped in the kitchen when I was seven or eight, peeling carrots or collecting wild garlic in the forest. For that, I got a small allowance. Later, I really started out as a dishwasher. That way, I got to know the business from the ground up.

And if you hadn’t become a restaurateur?
Then probably a farmer. My great-grandfather came from a farming family, and honestly, I would have loved that profession too.

The Hiltl restaurants are often full, yet there are "only" four locations in Zurich. Why do you focus so strongly on your home city?
That’s also linked to Tibits. I founded this vegetarian concept together with the Frei brothers 25 years ago, and much of Hiltl – like our famous buffet – was integrated into the business plan. While tibits is designed for expansion beyond Zurich, Hiltl remains strongly rooted locally: we cook centrally at Haus Hiltl in Zurich, prepare everything fresh here daily, and supply our locations with our own logistics. A delivery all the way to Lausanne simply wouldn’t be practical. That’s why we stay rooted here.

Are there plans for new locations in Zurich?
Yes, in the medium term we’re looking for a place at Zurich Airport. Whether airside or landside – that’s still to be decided.

125 years of Hiltl: how did you celebrate?
We opened "Martha’s Courtyard" and revived old recipes. A tribute to Hiltl’s history and to my great-grandmother Martha Gneupel, our first head chef and the wife of Ambrosius Hiltl.

If you could write one message to SWISS passengers on a napkin, what would it be?
I’d write: "Go veggie, fly veggie!" By choosing a vegetarian menu, everyone can make a small contribution and shape their journey more consciously.

We asked Rolf Hiltl to reveal his preferences in a "This or That" round.

• Window or aisle seat? In Business Class, at the window; in Economy Class, aisle – that way I can get out faster.
• Business or Economy? Sometimes Business Class, but I also fly Economy. But once you’ve gotten used to the excellent SWISS service in Business Class, "downgrading" isn’t all that easy. (Laughs.)
• Zurich or Paris? Zurich is home, that’s where I grew up. But Paris is a wonderful city – so for now, Paris.
• Delhi or San Francisco? In the past, San Francisco; today, Delhi.
• Breakfast inflight or dinner above the clouds? Dinner above the clouds, three movies, and then sleeping in the next morning.
• Veggie burger or tofu curry? Tofu curry.
• Recipe book or freestyle cooking? At Hiltl, by recipe book – we write everything down precisely, by the way also at SWISS. Privately, more freestyle.
• Champagne or tomato juice? Both.
• Packing in the morning or the evening before? In the morning, at the very last moment.

Thank you, Rolf, for this inspiring conversation – and here’s to many more culinary heights together!