The Greek capital may at first seem too loud, too hot, and slightly overwhelming with (too much) antiquity in a small space. But especially with children and a slower pace of travel, you discover a surprisingly light side of Athens: cats in shady alleyways, street performers, bitter orange trees providing shade, and street art between crumbling facades. Athens is a city that is constantly reinventing itself with palpable energy.

Drifting through the city
If you step away from the hustle of major shopping streets like Ermou and Aiolou and turn into side streets around Agias Irini or Karytsi Square, you’ll find concept stores and boutiques offering Greek products such as Ancient Greek Sandals, delicately scented cosmetics at the Olive Era Store, quiet courtyards, and charming cafés. A special spot is Anana Coffee & Food, where you can relax in the courtyard. Homemade ice cream is available at Le Greche, and black-and-white photo strips at Rom Com.

Classics with room to explore
Of course, no visit to Athens is complete without the Acropolis. In summer, it’s best to go early in the morning or in the evening. Good shoes are essential, and it’s better to leave the stroller at home. If you want to dive deeper into antiquity, the Acropolis Museum is a great choice. Beyond the exhibits, it offers a modern experience. For children, there are interactive games that bring Greek myths to life in colorful worlds. The changing of the guard in front of the Greek Parliament takes place every hour and has an almost theatrical quality, while the first modern Olympic stadium, the Panathenaic Stadium, offers plenty of space to run and take photos.

Culture that connects to the present
The National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST) is housed in the former brewery building and showcases modern and contemporary works by international and Greek artists. A visit is worthwhile for the building alone, with its spacious, minimalist rooms and rooftop terrace overlooking the Acropolis. Before or after the museum, you can recharge at Bel Ray Bar with brunch, salad, or a burger—much of it homemade, and even the logo brings a smile.

If a snack is enough, head in the opposite direction from EMST and settle into the charming Lotte Café Bistrot. Just five minutes away, don’t miss a shopping stop at the concept store Ere Athens, where you’ll find carefully curated creations by Greek and international artists, stylish souvenirs from Greek manufacturers, and books. There’s also a bench to sit down, enjoy a coffee, and have something sweet.

Eating on a loop
As you wander through Athens, you quickly notice that people eat a lot—and constantly. The city has a very high density of restaurants, tavernas, and cafés that shape the streetscape. That’s why it’s worth choosing carefully where to go. In the shaded courtyard of a former school, Ama Lachei in Exarchia offers a relaxed atmosphere, serving mezze meant to be shared.

Delicious Greek menus with surprising combinations and a vintage ambiance can be found at Kiouzin in Kolonaki. And for its unique setting alone, a visit to One Burger in the heart of Athens is a must. Expect high-quality smash burgers, hand-cut fries, and cozy niches to retreat into. In summer, this trendy burger and architecture hotspot transforms into an open-air bar.

If you’re cooking yourself, a visit to the Varvakios Market hall is a highlight. It offers a huge selection of fresh fish, meat, and Greek specialties such as olives and cheese. Many food tours also start here. On Evripidou Street just around the corner, spices and legumes are stacked high, and at Miran Deli, sausages hang from the ceiling.

Small escapes from the big-city buzz
If it all becomes a bit too much, head to the Riviera and visit the Ellinikon Experience Park on the former airport site, with its beautiful playground and water maze. The Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center also features a large park. Several beaches along the Athenian Riviera can be reached by tram in 30 to 40 minutes from the city center—one of them is Alimos Beach.

Where to sleep well and enjoy the best views
The charming boutique hotel Moon and Stars in Psyrri is an ideal base for small families with slightly older children. It is stylishly furnished and centrally located. Breakfast is served in a picnic basket and can be enjoyed in the room or on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Acropolis.

At the Coco-Mat Hotel in chic Kolonaki, you sleep on handcrafted beds made from natural materials. The Metropolitan Loft is ideal for families. Here too, breakfast can be enjoyed on the rooftop. For a more retro and urban vibe, there’s the Brown Acropol at Omonia Square. Each room has a record player, and to balance the city experience, there’s an in-house spa with hammam. The real highlight is the rooftop terrace, where you can enjoy the view from the whirlpool or a hammock.

Good to know: Just because the traffic light is red doesn’t automatically mean that no cars or scooters are coming—always look twice. Be mindful of pickpockets, especially in the metro to and from the airport and in the city center. The city is not barrier-free, so think carefully about bringing a stroller.

Public transport: Buses, trolleybuses, tram, and metro.
A single ticket costs €1.20, is valid for 90 minutes, and covers all public transport in Athens. A 24-hour ticket costs €4.10. Children under 6 travel for free; those aged 7 to 18 pay €0.60 (proof of age required).

SWISS International Air Lines flies several times a day from Zurich to Athens. The flight takes approximately 2 hours and 45 minutes.