Flying for SWISS since 2018, I recommend Bologna to anyone who wants to experience the Italian Dolce Vita while enjoying exceptional food.
The compact city is perfect for a leisurely getaway centered around great food and good living. And while a traditional Italian meal is typically served in courses such as antipasto, primo, and secondo, I’ve taken the liberty of reimagining the menu for this stroll through Bologna. In five courses, I’ll take you on a journey through the capital of Emilia-Romagna. From the first espresso of the day and handmade pasta to hidden canals and unforgettable gelato, I’ll share my favorite sides of the city. Bologna’s historic center is best explored on foot. Arcaded walkways lead through medieval streets lined with historic palazzi, charming cafés, and lively squares where everyday city life unfolds. The distance from one landmark to the next is rarely far and the next culinary stop is usually even closer.

First course: espresso and pastry for breakfast
A great day in Bologna begins with a great espresso. One of my favorite spots for that is Forno Brisa, a modern bakery serving its own coffee, freshly baked bread, and delicious pastries. I especially recommend the focaccia. The atmosphere is lively and relaxed, making it the perfect first stop after arriving in the city. From here, continue beneath Bologna’s iconic porticoes. They are a defining feature of the city and make strolling through Bologna enjoyable, whether it’s raining or the sun is shining. Along the way, be sure to peek into the small shops, hidden courtyards, and cozy cafés that give the city its unique character.

Second course: the city as an antipasto
In Italy, an antipasto is much more than an appetizer. It’s a preview of what’s yet to come. Before settling in for a memorable meal, it’s worth exploring the historic heart of Bologna around Piazza Maggiore. Several of the city’s most important landmarks are located just a short walk from one another, including the Basilica of San Petronio, the Palazzo del Podestà, and the Palazzo d’Accursio. The clock tower of Palazzo d’Accursio offers beautiful views over the city's red-tiled rooftops. Nearby, students, families, and businesspeople gather around the Fountain of Neptune, affectionately known to locals as Il Gigante ("The Giant") because of its imposing statue. Street musicians perform between the palazzi, bicycles glide across the cobblestones, and on the café terraces, no one seems to be in any particular hurry. From here, it’s only a few minutes to the Quadrilatero, Bologna’s historic market district. Its narrow streets are lined with stalls and shops overflowing with Parmesan cheese, mortadella, fresh pasta, vegetables, and pastries. For a delicious antipasto, I recommend stopping by Salumeria Simoni, where specialties from Bologna and the Emilia-Romagna region take center stage.

Third course: aperitivo among books and canals
Bologna is home to the oldest university in the Western world. To this day, students shape life in the city center and give Bologna much of its vibrant energy. Bicycles lean against centuries-old palazzi, laughter and lively discussions spill out into the streets, and bars remain filled well into the evening. For a relaxing break, I recommend Camera a Sud, a cozy spot for coffee, wine, or an early aperitivo. This beloved Italian tradition is the perfect way to ease into the evening with a drink and a selection of small bites. From here, take a short detour to Via Piella. Through a small window in the wall, you'll catch a glimpse of the Canale delle Moline, one of the few visible sections of Bologna’s historic canal network. For bruschetta and wine, Tannino Bruschette e Vino is an excellent choice. The menu features 14 different bruschette served on sourdough bread, and the knowledgeable staff are always happy to recommend the perfect wine pairing.

Fourth course: pasta, please
In Bologna, eating isn’t a break from sightseeing. It’s a form of sightseeing in its own right. The city is widely regarded as one of Italy’s culinary capitals. Local classics include tortellini served in a rich broth, mortadella, and, of course, ragù alla bolognese. The original, however, has very little to do with spaghetti. In Bologna, ragù is traditionally served with tagliatelle, whose broad egg pasta ribbons are perfect for soaking up the slow-cooked sauce. In many shops throughout the city, you can watch pasta being rolled, folded, and filled entirely by hand. It's a craft that remains an important part of everyday life in Bologna. For dinner, I recommend Osteria Futura or La Rimessa. Both restaurants are excellent places to discover not only beloved local specialties but also more contemporary interpretations of Bolognese cuisine. Reservations are especially recommended on weekends.

Fifth course: a sweet farewell
The next morning, Bologna invites you to take things slowly once again. With a cappuccino, something sweet, and the lively buzz of conversation at the coffee bar. After that, there’s just one question left: should the final course be leisurely or active? If you’d like to see the city from a different perspective, head to the Santuario della Madonna di San Luca. From Porta Saragozza, a portico stretching for around 4 kilometers leads up to the hilltop sanctuary. The walk requires a bit of time and energy, but the views over the city and the rolling hills of Emilia-Romagna are well worth the effort. If you'd rather spend a little more time in the city center, stroll through the Mercato delle Erbe, enjoy one last espresso, or pick up some fresh pasta and mortadella to take home. And no visit to Bologna would be complete without a final gelato. One of my favorite spots is Cremeria Marconi, known for combining classic flavors with creative taste combinations. I especially recommend the house specialty, Marconi, made with pistachio and white chocolate. After two days, it’s not only the red façades, lively piazzas, and endless porticoes that stay with you. More than anything, it’s the small moments of indulgence that linger: the aroma of freshly baked pastries, a rich ragù, a good glass of wine, and creamy gelato.
Ciao, Bologna. We’ll meet again.

Best time to visit: Spring and fall are particularly pleasant. Thanks to its extensive porticoes, however, Bologna is also an excellent destination on hot summer or rainy days.

Flying to Bologna with SWISS: SWISS operates several flights each week from Switzerland to Bologna.