Day 1: Toronto – Algonquin Provincial Park From the hustle and bustle of the city to the calm of nature

Ten o'clock in the morning. On Bloor Street East in downtown Toronto, I get behind the wheel of the hire car I booked with Sunny Cars, enter my destination for the day into the GPS, adjust the rear-view and side mirrors, and set off.

The first 100 kilometres to Barrie are unspectacular – just highway driving. But on Route 60 N the forests become denser and views of lakes and waterways open up again and again. About 10 kilometres before my destination, I spontaneously follow the sign to Hardwood Lookout Trail. After a short 1-kilometre trail, I see what awaits me: endless forests and sparkling lakes – my anticipation for Algonquin Provincial Park grows. Eight more miles, then I reach the Arowhon Pines Resort.

On the eastern arm of Little Joe Lake, cabins from the 1930s lie amidst cedar forests. The Canada feeling finally awakens when Theresa at the reception in the main building reveals: no WiFi, no service – no connection to the outside world. As a travel journalist, this is unusual, but soon I forget everything mundane. The digital detox begins. As I roam through the forest along the lake shore, calm comes over me. It enters me from outside. I have arrived. At myself.

The iconic Muskoka chairs are everywhere, canoes and kayaks are ready and waiting, and sweaty people emerge from the sauna into the evening light. Next door, a bonfire is burning, and the idyll seems almost unreal. At 6:30 p.m., the bell rings for dinner and the guests stream into the main house.

I am now sitting at my table in the large log cabin, having refreshed myself at the appetiser table, and making these notes that you are reading. Now I am waiting for my main course: a tenderloin.

 

#book recommendation

Before going to bed, I read by the crackling fireplace in Keeper'n Me. I saved Richard Wagamese's book for this trip because it is set right here. Wagamese belongs to the Ojibwe (Anishinabe), one of the largest First Nations in North America, and is considered an important voice of Canada's indigenous culture. He writes about Garnet Raven, who feels alienated and finds his way back to himself. His language sounds almost like an echo of the landscape amid the quiet forests of Ontario:

 

#Indigenous culture in Canada

Many places along our route – such as Algonquin Park, Kingston and Ottawa – are located on traditional lands of Indigenous peoples such as the Ojibwe (Anishinaabe), Algonquin and Haudenosaunee. Their languages, stories and traditions continue to shape the cultural heritage to this day. Treating nature and culture with respect shows appreciation for the people whose roots have been here for thousands of years.

If you want to find out whose territory you are currently in, you can easily find out at Native Land Digital. 

 

 

Day 2: Algonquin Provincial Park
Out and about in a canoe

Some people dream while they sleep – at Arowhon Pines Resort, the dream begins when you wake up. At 6:30 a.m., fog hangs over Little Joe Lake, broken by the first rays of sunshine. The higher the sun rises, the more magical the cabins appear. The smell of coffee brings me back to reality – time for breakfast and the canoe trip.

After a 20-minute drive to Canoe Lake, I meet Hannah from Algonquin Outfitters, my guide for the day. We load our canoe with dry bags and lunch packages from the resort and set off on a three-hour tour across Canoe Lake.

We quickly find our paddling rhythm. The canoe floats almost silently across the water. Hannah shows me hidden bays, moose bathing spots, sunbathing turtles and the summer camps for young people. In a side arm, we paddle past a log bridge that is over 100 years old and up to a portage. For lunch, we moor at the Tom Thomson memorial, pull the canoe ashore and enjoy sandwiches and cookies on the lake shore. Then we paddle back to our starting point for about 45 minutes, and I know that this won't be the last time I sit in a canoe.

Back at the resort, I swim in Little Joe Lake and enjoy the peace and quiet. On the way to dinner, I meet Theresa again, who took over the resort from the founding family and preserves its spirit: an oasis of calm in the middle of nature – far away from everyday life, but close to the lightness of being.

 

 

Day 3: Algonquin Provincial Park – Peterborough
The history of the canoe is also the history of Canada

In Algonquin Provincial Park, I have the wide roads almost to myself – a real road trip feeling on the way south. On the way to the Canoe Museum in Peterborough, I experience a surprise at the Lock & Paddle event: nearly a thousand canoes at a lock during the Lock & Paddle event.

The Canadian Canoe Museum in Peterborough combines history, design and experiences: curated exhibits, workshops, a hunting lodge with indigenous stories and over 600 canoes that tell the stories of First Nations, explorers, traders and adventurers. The new building, which opened in 2024, was named ‘Best Cultural Spot’ by National Geographic. The museum is located on the territory of the Michi Saagiig Anishinaabeg, where indigenous partners shape programmes and content, which keeps their culture alive.

After this impressive visit, my journey continues south to Prince Edward County, where I check into the modern Drake Motor Inn – a perfect motel for road trippers. A cold beer at Midtown Brewery, just around the corner, and a hearty Mexican dinner at La Condesa round off the day.

 

 

Day 4: Prince Edward County
Sandbanks, Chardonnay and an evening by the fire

Sunday starts off grey and rainy – perfect for organising my notes. Around midday, the skies clear up and I set off through Prince Edward County. First stop: Sandbanks Provincial Park with its beaches, beach life and lots of people. The urge to just stay here is strong, but curiosity wins out.

I drive on via Cherry Valley. I hadn't actually planned to stop here. But I simply had to stop to take photos at the old Texaco petrol station. Afterwards, I visit Lighthall Vineyards, where they not only sell wine but also handmade cheese.

With no specific destination in mind, I continue towards Prinyers Cove. The landscape shows the rural side of Prince Edward County, where the view sweeps across Lake Ontario. You almost forget that it is a lake and not the sea.

I stop often along the way to take photos. That's how I meet the Forcht family. Their farm has been lovingly restored and their story is impressive. Gail and Stan have lived here for 35 years and renovated everything themselves: the house, the barn, the shed and everything around it. The Forcht family gives a home to animals that have nowhere else to go. It's a little paradise.

On the way back, I stop in Picton, the heart of Prince Edward County. Historic brick buildings, small cafés, galleries and boutiques line Main Street.

Back in Wellington, the day ends with dinner on the terrace of the Drake Devonshire. There is burrata, burgers, beer and wine. But Prince Edward County leaves me wanting more. As darkness falls, I sit by the bonfire with a glass of wine and enjoy the silence on the shores of Lake Ontario.

 

 

Day 5: Prince Edward County – Kingston
Rock’n’Roll, history and dinner on the St. Lawrence River

It's great to have you along for the ride as my co-driver! Today we're continuing on to Kingston. On the way, I stop at Lake on the Mountain to enjoy lunch. Then the ferry takes me to Adolphustown, where the rest of the journey takes me along the shores of Lake Ontario.

In Kingston, I check into the Frontenac Club. Once the Bank of Montreal, it is now a stylish boutique hotel. My room is the Backstage Room, which is entirely dedicated to the legendary band The Tragically Hip. Golden LPs, concert photos, posters: I'm spending the night in rocking company.

#Listening tip

The Tragically Hip are legends in Canada. Founded in Kingston in 1984, they shaped the rock scene for decades. Frontman Gord Downie became an icon for his lyrics and his commitment to indigenous rights and environmental issues. Their farewell concert in 2016, after Downie was diagnosed with cancer, was even broadcast live nationwide, with Prime Minister Justin Trudeau himself in the audience. The last song: Ahead by a Century.

The Tragically Hip - Ahead By A Century (Official Music Video)

 

At 4 p.m., I meet Arthur Milnes, former speechwriter for the Prime Minister and author of numerous books, in the lobby. He guides me through Kingston and shows me hidden corners of Canada's former capital. He tells stories about houses, residents and even Jimmy Carter, who once spontaneously stayed overnight with him, causing quite a stir among the Secret Service.

For dinner, I board the Island Star. On a dinner cruise on the St. Lawrence River, we glide into the Thousand Islands archipelago.

 

 

Day 6: Kingston – Ottawa
The detour is the destination

On the bus tour through Kingston in the morning, I learn a lot about its strategic importance. After a final walk and a delicious lunch at Chez Piggy, I continue on to Ottawa. Since it's not always the fastest route that counts, but also the most beautiful, I spontaneously take County Road 46 north instead of the the highway. Luckily, because this is how I discover Frank's General Store, a curious gem full of individual collector's passion.

In the evening, I arrive in Ottawa, check into the Metcalfe Hotel, where I enjoy a fine dinner at the Cocotte restaurant: salmon tartare and flat iron steak – just the thing after a long day.

 

 

Day 7: Ottawa
Between politics, poutine and perspectives

We head up to Parliament Hill. As the Centre Block is undergoing renovation until at least 2030, modern technology is currently the only solution: the audiovisual 3D show ‘Parliament – the immersive experience’ offers exciting insights into the interior of the building. It would be nicer to see the real thing, but it's still impressive.

At 1 p.m., my food tour with Skye Marok starts at the Byward Market. This allows me to enjoy – Italians should look away now – Hawaiian pizza and Bloody Caesars at the Grand Pizzeria. The pineapple pizza was invented in Ontario in 1962, and the Bloody Caesar in Calgary in 1969 – both have long since become Canadian classics.

I then continue to Beyond the Pale for poutine and craft beer, followed by Canada in a Basket, where I discover award-winning mustards. At Planet Coffee, I treat myself to a typical Canadian no-bake dessert: a Nanaimo bar. I end my culinary journey with a warm BeaverTail, probably the most Canadian treat of all.

To digest, I walk to the Museum of Canadian History, crossing the Ottawa River and thus also the provincial border from Ontario to Quebec. The architecture and exhibitions are impressive. A must for visitors to Ottawa.

Back to the Ontario shore by water taxi, past the staircase locks of the Rideau Canal. At RetroBikes, I watch the bicycle mechanics for a moment while drinking a coffee before recharging briefly at the hotel. Dinner at the Riviera: a cold beer, brioche, butter, then gravlax and sirloin. The notebook remains closed for today. You can find out more about Ottawa soon in the Ottawa City Report in SWISS Magazine.

 

 

Day 8: Ottawa – Kanata
In the footsteps of the Ojibwe

This day, I'm spending at Madahoki Farm in Kanata, part of the Algonquin-Anishinaabe Nation. Here, Indigenous culture comes alive – not as folklore, but as a genuine passing on of knowledge and tradition.

I have some warm encounters: Awema Tendesi welcomes me to the teepee with drumming and singing, and Lynn Surrette introduces me to the Ojibwe Spirit Horses. These are small, tough horses that were once almost extinct.

On the Legacy Trail, I get closer to the culture step by step and offer a tobacco sacrifice as a sign of respect. As I eat wild rice salad in the teepee, I feel a deep sense of gratitude. I spend my last night in Ontario at the Microtel in Kanata, which also belongs to the Ojibwe First Nation.

 

 

Day 9: Kanata – Mont Tremblant
From Ontario to Québec

Early in the morning, I leave Ontario and drive about 180 kilometres to Mont-Tremblant in Québec. One last stretch on the motorway before the landscape becomes the stage once again.

A highlight awaits me there: a short helicopter flight over the Laurentides. From above, the region appears as a mosaic of lakes and green hills sparkling in the sun. It's a panorama you won't forget.

Back on the ground, I check into the Fairmont Tremblant, located at the foot of Mont Tremblant and surrounded by a lively village with terraces, boutiques and street performers. As I stroll around, I can already feel the holiday spirit of families, hikers and cyclists.

In the evening, I experience something special: Tonga Lumina. A night-time path of light and sound that leads through the forest. Projections dance on trees, mystical sounds fill the air – a poetic homage to the nature and myths of the region. Wandering through the forest (not quite) alone at this late hour is like immersing yourself in another reality – mysterious and full of fleeting magic. 

 

 

Day 10: Mont-Tremblant – Montreal
Arrival in the metropolis

After a leisurely breakfast of eggs Benedict, I hike to a viewpoint overlooking Mont-Tremblant. Forests, lakes and mountains lie like a carpet at my feet.

Shortly after midday, I set off on the last leg of my road trip. The closer I get to Montréal, the heavier the traffic becomes. The four-lane road stretches straight ahead for a long time, the skyline appears and then I roll into the city.

My GPS guides me straight to Hotel 10, where I'll be staying for the next three nights. After checking in, I return the rental car to Sunny Cars. Now it's time for you to leave too. Join me on a short walk back to the hotel in the afternoon heat. This will give you a first impression of Montreal.

I'll tell you all about what I experienced in this fascinating city over the next few days – from creative neighbourhoods and rooftop bars to culinary discoveries – in my own Montreal report. But I can reveal this much: the city immediately captivated me.

A bientôt.

 

 

Distance: approx. 950 km
Duration: recommended 8–10 days

Route & highlights
Toronto · Algonquin Provincial Park · Peterborough · Prince Edward County · Kingston · Ottawa · Kanata · Mont-Tremblant · Montréal
The road trip also works well starting in Montreal.

Ontario
Ontario is Canada's most populous province with over 14 million inhabitants. The capital is Toronto, while the seat of government is Ottawa. Around 250,000 lakes and over 100,000 kilometres of rivers – including the St. Lawrence River and the Ottawa River – characterise the landscape. Geographically, the province stretches from the Great Lakes in the south to Hudson Bay in the north.

Quebec
Quebec is Canada's largest province in terms of area, with a population of around 8.1 million and French as its only official language. The capital is Quebec City, and the largest city is Montreal. Both combine European flair with a North American lifestyle. The province is rich in natural resources such as timber and hydropower and is famous for its maple syrup.

Travel time: May to October

Good to know

• It is best to book a hire car in advance, e.g. through Sunny Cars.
• Accommodation ranges from rustic cabins to boutique hotels.
• Native Land Digital shows which traditional indigenous territory you are currently in.

Further links
destinationontario.com
bonjourquebec.com

SWISS destinations
SWISS flies to Toronto and Montreal several times a week.