Just a moment ago, it was right beneath us. Now, thick fog has swallowed up Lake Geneva, along with the ferry boats and sailing boats. The houses of Montreux? The vineyards of Lavaux? Gone, as if they had never existed. We are standing on a rocky outcrop, and there is nothing to indicate that 1,500 metres below us is the water surface that the famous Vaud writer Charles Ferdinand Ramuz compared to the sea. All we can see are trees, moss and ferns and a grassy ridge covered with thousands of flowers. Somewhere, bells are ringing. Probably those of Christophe Pilet's cows.

Life and Work on Christophe Pilets Alpe at 1,620 Meters

Pilets Alpe is located half an hour's walk from our viewing point at 1,620 metres in the Vaud Alps. In the long building, the cows are milked, the pigs and calves are fed, and the employees live and sleep here during the summer months. One of them is my son, Baptiste, whom I am currently visiting with a mountaineering friend. And, of course, the Alpe is also home to the cheese factory, where the flavourful L'Etivaz is produced using traditional methods. According to the rules, the milk is heated in a copper cauldron over an open wood fire and brought to curd. Two wheel-sized loaves are produced in this way every day. Once or twice a week, Pilet takes his cheese to the cooperative's maturing cellar.

It is only five and a half kilometres air-line distance from Alpe to modern Montreux. A stone's throw, actually. For Christophe Pilet, however, the densely populated lake is a foreign world. A world he wants nothing to do with. Pilet can hardly understand why my son is drawn there on his days off. But it is the contrast that appeals to Baptiste. In the canton of Vaud, you can experience completely different worlds in a very small area: centuries-old farming traditions and global culture, gentian schnapps and champagne are only a two-hour walk apart.

The world of Alpine farmers is tough and full of privation. Those who work here have to get up early and go to bed tired. Perhaps this is why Christophe Pilet is so proud of the heritage he is fostering with his Alpine farming. Even though cheesemaking is hardly profitable anymore. No one has gotten rich from L'Etivaz for a long time. But things were different 260 years ago. Farmer and cheese merchant Jean David Henchoz sold this long-lasting delicacy with such success that he was able to build what remains the largest wooden house in Switzerland to this day. The five-storey building with 113 windows is still standing in the small village of Rossinière. Henchoz himself did not get to enjoy his prestigious building for long. He died two years after the completion ceremony.

Later, the 'Grand Chalet' served as a hotel, and from 1976 to 2001 it was the residence of the eccentric painter Balthus. No wonder that illustrious celebrities such as Alberto Giacometti, Richard Gere, David Bowie, Mick Jagger and even the Dalai Lama were guests in the oversized chalet. And although the private house can only be admired from a distance, the super chalet is one of the most important attractions in the Pays-d'Enhaut. If you want to learn something about its history, head to the chapel, which has been converted into a visitor centre by the Fondation Balthus. Here you can leaf through art catalogues or watch Wim Wenders' documentary about the painter, which is projected onto a huge screen.

Alpine Tradition and the Stunning Landscapes of Pays-d’Enhaut

Harmonious wooden architecture can be found in every small village in the region behind Lake Geneva. And even though most of these shingle-roofed gems are listed buildings, most of them are still in daily use. As guesthouses, sports shops, banks or eco-friendly shops. Even a granary or stable can be a tourist attraction here. It is therefore worth taking the time to visit small locations such as Château d'Oex, Les Moulins or Rougemont, especially as the roads are anything but straight, which means you can even get out of breath within the village itself.

High above the villages are the cheese alps, or ‘alpages’ as they are called in French-speaking Switzerland. Many of the meadows are so steep that you wonder how the cattle manage to keep their balance. Today, 70 families and 3,000 cows produce L’Etivaz cheese in over 130 farms. In summer, most of them are in operation, and often the whole family has moved up into the mountains. On a hike, we come across three children joyfully jumping into a plastic pool, only to quickly climb out again. The pool isn't filled with cold water, but with hot whey, a side product of cheese manufacturing.

In Pays-d'Enhaut, you don't have to climb dangerous summits to be happy. The landscape welcomes us just as warmly as the guesthouses. In the evenings, we dip white bread into cheese fondue, and during the day we hike along high alpine trails that offer views of Mont Blanc and the Bernese Oberland. Compared to the snow-covered three- and four-thousand-metre peaks, our summits are harmless. Nevertheless, we are thrilled. Not least because we have the beauty of this region almost to ourselves. It is particularly lonely in the La Pierreuse nature reserve, where we encounter not a single person, but a herd of ibexes calmly strolling across the scree field. Some of the animals even let us get as close as ten metres.

After days in the mountains – back to the lakeside

After five days of hiking, it's time for us to head down. Baptiste has three days off and accompanies us down to the lake. Into the hustle and bustle. Right now, the world-famous Montreux Jazz Festival is taking place. Stages and food stands line the waterfront promenade, which is lined with grand hotels with their Belle Epoque façades and yellow marquees. The audience is young and colourful, the atmosphere lively. Before and between concerts, people take a dip in the lake, and we too find ourselves sliding into the water again and again. Sometimes on the festival grounds, sometimes right next to the legendary water castle of Chillon.

Between concerts, we head back up into the world of mountain jackdaws and golden eagles. This time, we travel comfortably on the legendary cog railway to Rochers-de-Naye. The popular restaurant with a view, where we stop on the way back, is called ‘Le Coucou’ and only looks like a mountain hut at first glance. In reality, we are already back in the lake's sphere of influence. The sophisticated menu and chic waiters leave no doubt about that.

Later that evening, as we stand in front of the large lake stage with thousands of fans, celebrating with Grace Jones, the 77-year-old style icon from Jamaica, I think of Christophe Pilet, who is milking his cows just a few kilometres away. The contrast between the robust man in his rubber boots and the androgynous diva with her flashy masks could hardly be greater. Grace Jones sings her last hit of the evening while spinning a hula hoop around her hips for several minutes. We are completely thrilled and embrace each other. Now that Baptiste and I are dancing side by side, I can smell it clearly: Despite our baths in the lake, my son definitely smells like a cowshed.

Our Insider Tips:

Musée Du Pays-D’Enhaut
The museum focuses on the art of paper cutting. Sounds boring? Not thanks to its progressive approach, especially as the multi-storey building also teaches visitors a lot about cheese making and the early tourism in the region.

Festival du Jazz, Montreux
In 2026 the 60th edition of this famous festival will take place on Lake Geneva. Book your accommodation early and take time to explore the beautiful countryside around Montreux.

Télécabine Leysin - La Berneuse
Leysin - La Berneuse cable car  Directly opposite Christophe Pilet's alpe are three eye-catching rock towers. They are not part of the Pays-D'Enhaut, but they offer fantastic views. The easiest way to reach the Tour D'Aï (2331 m) and the Tour de Mayen (2327 m) is from the mountain station of the Gondola.

Café du Cerf
Rustic and chic at the same time. Café du Cerf serves high-quality plain fare. When dining on the terrace, you get a magnificent mountain view included.

Le Coucou
If you like to be trendy even when you're up in the mountains, you should make a reservation at this restaurant with a view, located next to the cog railway. The outdoor dining area, situated at 1,150 metres above sea level, offers magnificent views of Lake Geneva. Le Coucou spoils its guests with playful chic and local organic ingredients.

Maison d'hôtes Ermitage
A small hotel run by a well-known interior designer with great attention to detail. Each room has a balcony. The (independently run) restaurant is also highly recommended. If you're feeling brave, try the marrowbone with alpine flowers or the low-temperature braised pork cheeks.

Hotel de Commune
A cosy hotel in a traditional wooden building. The rooms are rustic and pleasant. Michaël Burri, the new head chef at the pleasantly modest hotel restaurant, used to cater for the artists at the Montreux Jazz Festival with his delicacies. He considers his traditional cuisine to be a tribute to his grandmother Denise.

Hotel du Leman
This hotel, located high above Vevey, offers fantastic views of the lake. The spacious grounds are surrounded by a beautiful orchard. The renovated main building offers simple elegance, while the rooms in the side building are more basic.